*Patterns which I designed for Vogue under the Today's Fit tab

Recently I attended a discussion on fashion which included Lou Lou de Falais, who for years was a muse of Oscar de La Renta and now a designer of fashion accessories. “Fashion is a way of expressing outwardly what we feel inwardly. Build your own identity, because without it you cannot create.” Everyday when we get dressed we are expressing who we are. Don’t take it so seriously but do have fun with it.

Warm weather brings out the bright colors again. Go bold this season with orange, hot pink, turquoise, marigold, or cobalt blue either in a dress, top, skirt or accessories. The safari look shows up every spring in khaki fabric, lots of pockets and brown accessories i.e.: brown belts and sandals. White and off white are always good bets for warm weather as well as beige neutrals. But don’t go too monochromatic this season. Pick up the look with a colorful shoe or purse.

This season you will see a lot of sleeveless shifts, either in dresses or tunics. These shifts often have a short cut on short sleeve, no sleeve at all or a cut in shoulder. This shift makes a great canvas to show off the large bold floral prints. Consider Vogue 8442 without sleeves worn as a tunic. For drapey knits, Donna Karan’s Vogue 1012 is a great warm evening out look. Another good knit candidate with a halter neck and twist detailing is Vogue 8448. Create a waist with multi-waist darted Vogue 8353, but add plenty of fit insurance at the side seam. Consider reducing the collar width by 1 inch.

When it comes to jackets, look for ones which have some sort of interesting sleeve detail: multi-seaming, embellishment, tucks or volume. Check out the sleeve on the new Vogue 1036*. This casual jacket is so flattering and very fun to make. Another pattern with a fun sleeve is Vogue 2991* view B. The shorter full sleeve is great for warmer weather. To lengthen this jacket, simply cut halfway between view A and view B. Another popular look this season is the short trench, made in 3 ply silk or a distressed looking lightweight fabric. If the classic trench is not your cup of tea, make up belted Vogue 1024*, unlined for a lot less work. To finish off the front edges and collar, simply fold under ¼ inch and another 1 inch, mitering the corners. I love the sweater coats! Vogue 2949* in a loose sweater knit fabric has back detailing, worth the price of admission. Consider adding a belt this season to this cardigan or closing with oversized buttons or snaps. Unlined coats are worn with sleeveless shifts; don’t forget to Hong Kong finish the seams with a memorable contrast fabric.

Try a straighter leg jean this season, one with interesting pockets – Vogue 1034*. You will love this jean, long or cropped. Make it cropped in white denim and you will wear it all season long. If you have already made my Today’s Fit jean Vogue 7608*, make the same adjustment on this newly styled jean Vogue 1034* and you will get the fit you want. A fuller pant in 3 ply silk or matte rayon jersey will be a great friend to you this season. In April , Vogue 1050* will be released which has controlled leg fullness, inverted deep side pleats and elasticized side waistband sections. If you have a great piece of fabric, wait for this pattern. You will also see skinny pants on the slim bodies and high waisted pants on those without tummies. What you will want this year is a pair of mid length shorts. Shorts can look dowdy if they are too long, so go with a mid thigh length, preferably with a cuff and cargo pockets. Check out Burda for the cargo and cuffed versions or use my Vogue 7027* view A shorts, cut 4 inches shorter. Shorts to the knee cut the body in half. Short shorts can work for the brave but are better in dark solid matte colors in structured fabric, worn with sandals or ballet flats, not heels.

One trend in skirts is the short straight skirt worn in a structured fabric such as denim, worn just above the knee. (discontinued Vogue 7333* or new straight skirt pattern, released in April Vogue 1045*, cut to hide a tummy.) Longer skirts, below the knee or longer are made in lightweight fabrics with ruched, pleated or puckered details. Vogue 1018* is a spectacular skirt which works in any fabric which is not too heavy. Another of my skirt favorites is Vogue 2933*, making only one side drape. This drape can be left hanging at the side or pulled toward the front, tucking one end under the elasticized waistband. Linen lovers definitely should make Vogue 2911 with only 2 pattern pieces and an elasticized waist. Every summer this skirt is a staple of mine in black linen. Since this skirt is cut on the bias, prewashed linen drapes beautifully. Another great skirt with some style is Vogue 2969*. Make it in a drapey knit, eliminate the zipper and add a casing. The asymmetrical drape is very flattering and so good looking with sandals.

T-shirt dressing has become a way of life in America; great fitting T-shirts can look very classy. I love all of my T- shirt patterns but am partial to Vogue 2991* with a shawl collar and Vogue 2935* with a high neck square drape. These are 2 incredibly well fitting T-shirts with the little shoulder, which makes you look smaller. A new T-shirt will be out in March featuring a boat neck and asymmetrical hemline Vogue 1049*; also in the pattern is a great sleeveless t-shirt. Since knits vary so much in stretch, always baste the side seams and take in or let out to suit.

Fine fabrics such a cotton batiste, cotton lawn or very fine linen make up well in many of the very simple blouses of the season with pleated or tucked detailing. Watch for a great little blouse paired with a straight skirt - Vogue 1045*released in April. If you have been looking for a tailored shirt with the little shoulder and set in sleeve, make up Vogue 1033* in linen, cotton islet or some of the feather weight cottons. My favorite summer blouse is Vogue 1017*, view B, made up in check silk taffeta. Wear the collar up!

Transparent lightweight fabrics, netting, textured fabrics in simple shapes, drapey 3 ply silks in loose pants and classic shirts, brocades and denims for straight skirts and jackets, ikats, large scale bold florals and overprinted designs on patterned fabric for tunic tops and dresses , satin for cocktail dress, khaki cottons in safari looks. While fall and winter was full of leopard prints, these are noticeably absent now. Ditto for stripes.

Tiny pleats, ruching, drapes, twisted details, feathers, layering of lightweight sheers, stud detailing, multiple pockets, cargo pockets, banded bottoms on tunics.

Bold cuff bracelets, oversized necklaces, chunky Lucite, oversized beads, large faced statement watches, large hoop earrings.

Oversized frames with semi-transparent lenses.

Designers jump on the bandwagon with fun sneakers.
Strappey sandals and pumps with “banana heels”, wing tip inspired styles in heels and flats, wedge covered platforms, stud detailing, peep toes, colored patent leather, metallic sandals and flats, primary color shoes worn with one color outfits of beige, grey, black and white.

Oversized woven leather bags, large clutch bags, primary color bags often in shiny patent leather, quilted leathers, studs, less rather than more hardware on straps and buckles.